Caring for leather cowboy boots involves regular cleaning, conditioning, and proper storage to maintain the leather's suppleness and prevent cracking. Always test boot care products in an inconspicuous place first to ensure compatibility. Leather often darkens initially with cleaning and conditioning and returns to normal when dry. Some conditioners, though, darken the leather for longer periods of time. Please read product labels carefully.
Materials Needed (not all are required)
- Soft-bristled cleaning brushes (horsehair is recommended)
- Clean, dry applicator cloths or pads
- Damp cloths or pads
- Drying towel
- Buffing mitts or brushes
- Leather cleaner (like saddle soap or foaming leather cleaning soap)
- Leather conditioner (choose carefully - oil-based may darken leather)
- Colored shoe cream for touch-ups
- Leather polish (optional - there are two sides to this discussion)
- Water and stain repellent spray (also optional and likely best only for work boots)
- Boot inserts like boot trees, shaft supports, charcoal bags and dust bags (optional, but highly recommended for transport and storage)
Boot Cleaning
Remove loose dirt/dust: Use a soft-bristled brush to gently brush off any surface dirt, paying careful attention to seams and crevices. Do not brush firmly or vigorously around the edges of inlay and overlay - it can cause damage
Wipe down: Use a slightly damp cloth to wipe away any remaining grime. Avoid soaking the leather.
Clean with mild soap: Use a mild leather cleaner or saddle soap applied with a horsehair dauber brush or a dampened cloth. Be sure to wipe all soap residue off with a fresh cloth afterward.
Treat tough stains (only if necessary): Stains often do not come out of leather, so be realistic in your expectation so that the leather doesn't become damaged. We don't have a recommended treatment for stains, but a number of DIY options are listed here (link).
Air dry: Allow the boots to air dry completely at room temperature before proceeding. Never use direct heat sources like a hairdryer or radiator, as this can cause the leather to dry out and crack. Leather often looks darker for 24 hours after a cleaning.
Condition the Leather
Apply conditioner: Once the boots are fully dry, apply a small amount of a high-quality leather conditioner to a clean, dry cloth or applicator pad. Rub it into the leather in small circular motions, ensuring even coverage over the entire boot.
Allow absorption: Let the conditioner sit for about 15-30 minutes to penetrate the leather fibers.
Wipe off excess: Use a clean cloth or applicator pad to buff away any excess conditioner and create shine.
Frequency: Condition your boots every 3-6 months, or more often if they are exposed to harsh conditions or heavy use.
Exotic leathers: The best exotic leather conditioners are products like Bickmore Exotic or Saphir Reptan for alligator, crocodile, and reptile skins. For a good all-around option, many recommend Leather Honey for its safety on a wide range of exotic leathers, or Angelus Exotic Reptile Conditioner for snakeskin.
Polish and Protect (Optional) - Please note the risks of these products
Keep in mind: A well-maintained pair of boots that is routinely conditioned will offer good shine and some water-repellant qualities. If your boots are frequently used in all weather or in a heavy working environment, polish and repellants could be a very good idea.
Polish: If you want to achieve a shine or cover minor scuffs, apply a matching or neutral cream polish with a soft cloth. After it dries, brush the boots briskly with a clean, soft brush or polishing mitt to buff to a luster.
Polish product concerns:
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- Whenever possible, you should avoid heavy wax-based leather conditioner because it can clog the leather's pores, preventing it from "breathing" and leading to dryness and potential rot from the inside out. Wax sits on the surface, creates a sticky residue, attracts dirt, and can make the leather stiff and less flexible when it hardens. It also darkens leather and can lead to a waxy, uneven build-up over time.
- Additionally, avoid silicone in leather conditioners because it creates a non-breathable, artificial barrier that can suffocate the leather, cause buildup, attract dust, and make it unnaturally shiny and slippery. Over time, it can alter the leather's feel, trap moisture, and even make future repairs or restoration more difficult, as silicone is hard to remove.
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Protect: For added protection against water and stains, consider applying a non-silicone water and stain repellent spray or beeswax product, testing an inconspicuous area first to ensure it doesn't change the color. This should be limited to use on work boots.
Water repellant concerns:
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- Many repellants contain silicone and other harsh chemicals, and once they are on/in your leather, they may not be removeable. Unless using on work boots, avoid using on custom and fine leather boots.
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Crocodile, alligator, caiman, lizard, pirarucu (fish) and snake: These are sensitive to UV rays. Apply specialized conditioner made for exotic leathers in the direction of the scales. Curling is a sign of dryness. When wearing, dab away moisture immediately and let air-dry naturally.
Ostrich: Avoid prolonged sun exposure, as this can cause fading and dryness. Use a damp cloth to clean and a specific exotic leather conditioner to maintain softness.
Stingray and elephant: This leather is very durable and scratch-resistant but still requires proper care. Clean and condition routinely. Avoid plastic bags and store in a cool, dry place away from humidity and heat.
Hair on hide: For boots with fur, use a vacuum with a brush attachment to remove dust and dirt and keep hair from matting. Clean matted areas with a damp cloth or sponge and wipe only in the direction of the hair. Hair on hide leather tends to lose the fur in areas where there is constant contact/rubbing, so wear selectively to increase longevity. Store in a cool, dry place away from plastic bags to prevent moisture buildup.
Suede: To care for suede, regularly use a suede brush to remove dirt and restore the nap, apply a protective spray to prevent stains and water damage, and use a suede eraser for scuffs and marks. Proper storage in a cool, dry, and dark place away from direct sunlight is also essential. Avoid getting suede wet, and for tough stains, spot-clean with a small amount of white vinegar or alcohol before brushing.
General Care & Storage Tips
Proper Drying: If your boots get saturated with water, stuff them with newspaper or a clean towel to help them retain their shape and absorb internal moisture quickly, then remove and allow them to air dry naturally away from heat for at least 24 hours.
Storage: Store your boots upright in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Use boot trees and shaft supports to help maintain their shape, allow for air circulation, and help prevent odors. Avoid storing them in plastic bags that can trap moisture.
Rotate Boots: If possible, avoid wearing the same pair of boots two days in a row to allow them to breathe and dry out from foot moisture.
Know Your Leather Type: The general cleaning instructions above are for most smooth leathers. Exotic leathers (e.g., ostrich, alligator) or distressed leathers (usually sueded) may require specialized care products or methods - some are mentioned above. When in doubt, consult the manufacturer's care guide or a professional cobbler.
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