Inlay Versus Overlay - What is the Difference?

*Boot examples are from Rocketbuster in El Paso, Texas

In leatherwork, an inlay is a piece of leather set into a space cut into the surface layer, creating a smooth, flush surface. In contrast, an overlay is a piece of leather sewn or glued on top of the base leather, which creates a raised, 3D effect. Inlays are recessed, while overlays are layered on top.

Inlay

Method: A shape is cut out of the top layer of leather, and a larger piece of a different color or texture is placed below this recess. The edges are often "skived" (carved to be thinner) to reduce the bulk of multiple layers of leather.

Appearance: Creates a smooth, sleek, and flush design because the decorative piece is level with the main surface.

Result: The final piece is flatter and bulkier leather is not added, and the decorative piece sits even with the base leather.

Overlay

Method: An additional piece of leather is cut and then glued or sewn on top of the base leather.

Appearance: Creates a raised, 3D effect with a distinct border where the two pieces of leather meet.

Result: The finished item can look bolder and more dimensional, but the result is an assembly that is thicker because of the layering.

Combination

It is possible to combine both techniques in a single project to get the best of both worlds. For example, a design could include an overlay piece with an inlay cut into its surface. Add in some hand-tooling and you have a very special boot! Have a pair? Send us a picture! We would love to see them.

There are some bootmakers out there that are masters of this process, including Rocketbuster, Lucchese, Little's, Lisa Sorrell, and others. Want more information on the process? There is a great book about these processes by Lisa Sorrell. Look it up!

*Some content refined with AI